How to choose a great Color Scheme for your Miniatures

Thinking about color-schemes is one of the hidden gems of the miniature hobby that doesn't require much energy but will make a huge difference in terms of your painting (and maybe even your personal life!). It has gotten to the point where my desire to try out new color schemes is one of the primary reasons i'll go out and buy a miniature. It becomes fun to think about various color combinations and I've often found myself taking pictures of objects, settings, or art I encounter in my day-to-day life that have a color palette I find really appealing.

To that end I thought I'd give you some basic points to think about when you're trying to come up with an original color scheme for your miniatures along with an example of my own practices when figuring out a scheme.

Complementary Colors: This is some really basic color theory, there are tons of articles out there which explain this better than I could, but suffice to say that a really good starting point when constructing a palette is to look at a color wheel and check complementary colors. These are constructed by drawing a straight (or nearly straight) line across the the wheel between two colors. Complementary colors are a great way to give yourself a really satisfying choice of primary colors (the most prominent/notable colors in your scheme) to build your palette off of.

These work especially well for miniature painting because you often want your figures to really pop on the table and you can go for really intense complimentary colors that you wouldn't typically see. Such as a deep purple against a light green:

A good example of complementary colors between the purple sword and green armor.

Shades of intensity (hues): Obviously you don't always want the brightest possible colors on your miniatures so keep in mind that you can vary up the level of white and black in your chosen primary colors to make them darker or lighter. For example: green and red are a complementary color but tend to make your figures look like Christmas decorations if you go for really pure and bright versions of both colors, but a really dark or muddy red can pair beautifully with a strong green to give you a much more realistic looking earthy tone.

I often find it helpful once I've settled on a set of 2-3 primary colors to look through the hobby paints offered by various companies to give me an idea of the different variations in shade and brightness I have access to. Keep in mind that you will typically want to build a strong contrast from dark to light for every color when you're layering and highlighting your miniatures, so pushing some of the base colors into a darker tone can make it much easier to highlight upwards. This is true even if you want a really bright overall effect.

Warm and Cool: If you don't like the idea of really strong complementary colors there is another way you can think about the color wheel. Namely a broad distinction in color theory between "warm" and "cool" colors that tend to connote certain feelings. This idea comes up in fashion a lot, with "cool" colors being prioritized in most professional attire as they connote a sort distance and logical exterior. That's why you'll see a lot of blues, greys, and light pinks, in the workplace with just a splash of warmer colors here or there. Whereas warm colors tend to be a bit more earthy and insinuate a more naturalistic environment.

Since we don't tend to dress ourselves with really strong or vibrant color combinations in our day-to-day life we often unknowingly use ideas about "warm" and "cool" color combinations that are analogous (similar tones that are next to each other on the color wheel) to help imply a certain attitude in our day to day life.

Neutral colors: These are colors that are not present on the color wheel and consequently can be used to accompany and accent the complementary or analogous schemes you come up with. These can make great tertiary colors to pick out smaller details on the models without clashing or upsetting the balance of your main colors.

Broadly speaking there are only four neutral colors: Black, Brown, Grey, and White. However any sort of color combination you can achieve with these four shades is considered neutral, and consequently you have a huge variety to choose from when finding something that will accompany your main colors.

All of these are very neutral colors

Keep in mind that brown tends to be a warm neutral color whereas grey tends to be a cool one. Most metal paints fall under the neutral umbrella as well, with gold/copper being warm and silver/steel being cool. Pure black and pure white never clash with any color scheme and can be used anywhere, although be aware that they are such strong tones they can easily dominate the overall colors of your model.

You can, of course, also choose to use a neutral color as one of your primary colors, which gives you a lot of leeway when choosing the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th colors on your figure.

Studio color scheme from Infinity.

The above image is a great example of using a neutral primary color (in this case white) while still getting some nice complementary tones out of the 2nd and 3rd colors. Note that the red and green color combination doesn't feel like a Christmas decoration at all, owing to the strong overall presence of the white.

Bases are a color too!: When designing your color scheme make sure you put some thought into how you will base your models, as the colors present in the base can be used to compliment or contrast the scheme of the model. For example you can paint your figure with one primary color and still get a really strong complementary effect by making your base it's opposite on the color wheel.

Teal and orange(ish)

Purple and green.

These guys are based using a darker/warmer tone of a similar color to set off their desaturated look.

You can also base for cohesion, in which the base becomes an extenuation of the colors present on the figure.

A good example of basing for cohesion with similar tones/shades present across the piece to tie it all in.

Finally you can also choose neutral bases that simply aim not to clash with your figure's colors. (A grey urban "rubble" base is a typical example) This is an especially good idea if your miniature has a lot of different strong colors on it. Your base color will make a huge difference in the overall appearance of your figure, so choose carefully! For more information you can check out my roomate's great blog articles on basing for contrast and basing for cohesion.

Some colors are easier to paint: For beginner-to-medium skilled painters there are certain colors that are just difficult to paint on miniatures. This is primarily because it's tough to get a nice level of contrast out of them. Contrast is the movement from dark to light as you go from the deepest details of the miniature to the highest ones in a way that mirrors the way light plays upon different colors in real life. In miniature painting we frequently push contrast to extremes in order to really make a miniature pop out on the table, not only in terms of our color combinations as mentioned above but also in terms of how each color moves from dark to light on the figure.

There are a few colors where it is objectively easier to get this contrast, and a few where it's objectively harder. Typically cool colors like blues and purples are really easy to get a nice contrast out of, whereas warm colors like red, orange, and yellow are more difficult. If you're employing a lot of warm colors but you still want a lot of contrast make sure you plan your shading/layering process carefully so you know how you'll get it.

A great example of this is trying to highlight red, as it tends to gradually turn into either pink or orange tones depending on what paints your using to lighten the color. Careful that you end up with a highlight you're happy with!

To give you some instances of how color schemes can be structured I've included a few palettes bellow...

Example #1: Complementary Color

Primarily a complementary contrast between an olive-green and a deep purple, which would go over armor or the main articles of clothing with a nice cream color as a tertiary option for extraneous clothing or leathers. The yellow would be a metallic gold for metals that compliments the warmth of the olive/cream notes.

A good example of how the scheme fits together.

Example #2: Neutral as a Primary Color

Black is a dominant neutral color here, but allows us to get some really strong complementary colors going on in the background between the teal and the orange. The deep red  can be used for further detailing as it complements the teal and is analogous to the yellow.

The image I based the above scheme on.

Example #3: Analogous Colors

This is the only palette here I didn't design myself, but as you can see it gives an example of a very cohesive palette based on autumnal colors, all of which are very warm, earthy, and close to each other on the color wheel.

A good example of how this sort of color scheme might be translated onto a set of figures. Note that the painter still uses splashes of bright blue to get some strong complementary effects here and there, and uses very light neutral skintones and greys to avoid clashing with the primary red/gold patterns.

Thanks for reading guys! I hope some of you found this article helpful and that my scatter-brained tips will help you see the fun you can have with designing color schemes. See you soon!

The great Hobby lull of 2016-2017

Hello friends,

This blog has not been updated in a long time and that is largely because my hobby time and energies have been almost non-existent since the fall of 2016. Things have been rather unpleasant for the past few months and I've been struggling with a severe a lack of motivation and self-confidence in my thesis work which has negatively impacted every other facet of my life. I seem to spend all of my time failing to do anything productive, work-related or otherwise.

In January of 2017 I sold off a lot of excess miniatures, painted or otherwise. Most significantly I have jettisoned all Warhammer Fantasy and Age of Sigmar figures, and cancelled my Fyreslayers project. This has reduced my collection down to three primary miniatures systems.

• Warhammer 40k - Ork army (2016)
• Infinity - Aleph army (2013-2014), Panoceania Army (2015)
• Warmachine - Cygnar (2012-2013)

It was liberating to reduce down to this level, and I am happy in the knowledge that I no longer need to paint large numbers of the same miniatures within GW systems (having already painted the bulk of my Ork troops). I probably could have sold off my Warmachine army as well since I never play, but I'm rather nostalgic for the game that pulled me back into the hobby and couldn't bring myself to do it.

Since early summer of 2016 I've been deeply involved in Fantasy Flight's Game of Thrones LCG, details of which can be found here. It's a wonderful system, and I find the LCG format very refreshing and far more competitive than Magic: The Gathering, which I've played casually since I was young. The pick-up-and-play nature of the AGOT game has obviated my inclination to pour hours into the hobby, and I've really enjoyed playing a competitive game that does not demand a huge amount of time off the table.

More recently I have finally experienced a rekindled enthusiasm for some miniature gaming, specifically a strong desire to play Infinity again. I've recently begun running a cyberpunk-themed RPG for a group of friends and it led me back to Infinity via the fluff. I recall really enjoying my experiences of it in my first two years in the UK and feeling that it had a very fast-paced and cinematic system. Furthermore the skirmish-level gameplay means that there would be fewer figures to paint and I could really take my time with them.

Of course, I felt compelled to start a new army rather than building off of my former forces because I am a glutton for punishment. So I've begun prepping a Japanese Sectorial force within the Yu-Jing faction. I'm looking forward to getting them on the table and trying to revitalize my local scene a bit.

A quick progress picture. This represents about 2 weeks of slow and careful assembly for an hour a day.

There has also been discussion within my local gaming group about starting up another 40k campaign with someone else heading it up. I'm hoping that between these two systems, and with some fresh figures on the painting block, that i'll start updating this blog more regularly.

Thanks for reading.